Table of Contents

Part 1: A History of Men's Fashion
Section Introduction
1. From Black in Spain to Black in Shakespeare, John Harvey
2. The Three Piece Suit, David Kuchta
3. Macaroni Masculinities, Peter McNeil
4. Thomas Carlyle and 'Sartor Restartus', Michael Carter
5. Dandyism, Visual Games and the Strategies of Representation, Olga Vainshtein
6. A Tale of Three Louis: Ambiguity, Masculinity and the Bowtie, Rob Shields
7. Uniforms and the Creation of Ideal Masculinity, Elizabeth Hackspiel-Mikosch
8. Better and Brighter Clothes: The Men's Dress Reform Party, Barbara Burman
Annotated Guide to Further Reading

Part 2: Masculinity and Sexuality
Section Introduction
9. California Casual: Lifestyle Marketing and Men's Leisure Wear, 1930-1960, William R. Scott
10. 'His Clothes': Fashionable Gay Masculinity and the Shopping Experience, London, 1950s-1970s, Clare Lomas
11. Uber Men: Fashionable Heroics and Masculine Style, Vicki Karaminas
12. The Italian Job: Football, Fashion and That Sarong, Stella Bruzzi
13. From Catwalk to Catalogue: Male Models, Masculinity and Identity, Joanne Entwistle
14. The Transvestite Continuum: Liberace-Valentino-Elvis, Marjorie Garber
15. Dragging It Up and Down: The Glamorised Male Body, Mark Simpson
16. Class, Race and Masculinity: The Superfly, The McDaddy and The Rapper, Del LaGrace Volcano and Judith Halberstam
Annotated Guide to Further Reading

Part 3: Icons: The Evolution of Men's Wear
Section Introduction
17. The Genesis of the Suit, Anne Hollander
18. The Reinvention of Tailoring, Michael Zakim
19. The Japanese Suit and Modernity, Toby Slade
20. Clothes and the Modern Man in 1930s Oxford, Laura Ugolini
21. A Note: A Charismatic Art: The Balance of Ingratiation and Outrage in Contemporary Fashion, Richard Martin
22. Modern Masculinity and the Rise of School Uniforms, Jennifer Craik
23. Texas Livestock Auctions: A Folklife Ethnography, George A. Boeck, Jr
24. American Denim: Blue Jeans and Their Multiple Layers of Meaning, Beverley Gordon
Annotated Guide to Further Reading

Part 4: Subculture
Section Introduction
25. The Zoot Suit: Its History and Influence, Holly Alford
26. Back to Africa: Reggae and Rastafarianism, Dick Hebdige
27. Cultural Responses to the Teds, Tony Jefferson
28. Rock, Fashion and Performativity, Noel McLaughlin
29. The Warhol Look, Mark Francis and Margery King
30. 'Macho Man': Clones and the Development of the Masculine Stereotype, Shaun Cole
Annotated Guide to Further Reading

Part 5: Consuming and Creating Style
Section Introduction
31. Fashion and the Man: From Suburb to City Street. The Spaces of Masculine Consumption 1870-1914, Christopher Breward
32. Fashioning the Playboy: Messages of Style and Masculinity in the Pages of Playboy Magazine, 1953-1963, Becky Conekin
33. 'It was Style with a Capital 'S'': Versions of Being Male Presented at the Beautillion Ball, Annette Lynch
34. New Men and New Markets, Frank Mort
35. Consuming Masculinities: Style, Content and Men's Magazines, Tim Edwards
Annotated Guide to Further Reading